Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Friday, July 26, 2013

Color Wheel Dress Tutorial

 A dress with a pieced circle skirt inspired by the 6 main colors of the color wheel (free pattern and tutorial)
 Supplies needed:

  • Purple Rose Party Dress pattern size 4
  • 1.5 yards white cotton fabric
  • 13 inches by 13 inches of 6 different solid colored cotton fabrics: pink, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple
  • 7-9 inch invisible zipper
  • bias binding
  • hook and eye closure

 Step-by-step instructions:
First make a pattern for the 6 wedges. On a large piece of paper draw a circle with 3.5 inch radius and draw another circle around that 10 inches away.
 With a protractor make a 60 degree angle and draw lines from the center point of the circle out to the edge of the largest circle.

  On the 2 sides of the wedge add .25 inches for the seam allowances.
 Cut off the inner 3.5 inches.
 Now you have your pattern which will be used to cut out the 6 different colored pieces of the color wheel.

 Sew together the 6 skirt pieces using .25 inch seam allowance, then press seams open.
 Cut out the circle skirt lining, by placing the color wheel circle skirt on top of white fabric, right sides together.
Sew lining and color wheel circle skirt together using .25 inch seam allowance.
Using pinking shear/zigzag rotary cutter, trim seam allowance all around the circle.
 Turn right side out and press.
 Cut out 2 bodices (the 2nd one is for the lining). Assemble bodices using .5 inch seam allowance (for more help refer to the Striped Dress). Attach bodice to the color wheel circle skirt using .5 inch seam allowance. Sew on bias binding to the bodice/skirt seam. Install invisible zipper. Add bias binding to the armholes and neckline. Attach a hook and eye closure above the invisible zipper.
 Put it on the girl and let her twirl!




Friday, July 19, 2013

Tricolor Chevron Tutorial

 So here's the scoop on how I created the Tricolor Chevron...

The pattern: Oliver+S Rollerskate Dress with these alterations: I went one size down (I would normally sew a size 5, so for this I sewed a size 4 and I do have to admit that it is a little snug when putting it on and taking it off, so my advise would be to make the back opening just a little bit deeper), eliminated the elastic waistband, added on seam side pockets, and added .5 inch in length
The fabrics: solid cotton fabrics in turquoise, white, and gray, lining is 100% cotton voile in white

 First up I started with an idea and made a sketch. I actually traced the View A front drawing from the sewing pattern (because I am so bad at drawing), then added my details. I then sat down and figured out how I was going to execute my vision. My number one priority was that I wanted that top turquoise stripe of the chevron to be thick enough to cover the whole shoulder.
 Second I created my own textile by cutting out strips of fabric:
  • Turquoise was cut 6.5 inches wide
  • White was cut 4 inches wide
  • Gray was cut 4 inches wide
 I took these strips of fabric and I sewed them together (using .5 inch seam allowances, then pressed the seams open) to make striped fabric.
 Lastly I cut out the pattern pieces at a 45 degree angle, adding .5 inch seam allowance for the center seam for the front 2 pieces. The first front piece I cut out using the paper pattern.

 For the second front piece I placed the first front piece on top (right sides together) to match up the stripes and get a perfect mirror image. I used the same method for the 2 back pieces.

 Then I sewed everything together, when sewing up the side seams that is when I added the on seam side pockets using Freshly Picked's pocket pattern.
 In the end the actual dress turned out to be a little different from the original sketch and that is because I decided to make a tricolor textile with varying thicknesses for the chevron, this was after seeing the inspiring photos from the Christian Siriano (Project Runway Season 4 winner) Resort 2014 collection.
PS I created this dress for the FLIP This Pattern Series and now through Sunday July 21 11 PM CST voting is going on, 3 different designers shared their FLIP, go here to vote for YOUR favorite.

PPS Would you like to learn another way to do color blocking? Check out color blocking 101 on the Oliver+S blog.

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Striped Dress

 I came across this striking green and white striped dress of Swedish design, it's from Anive for the Minors for their spring and summer 2013 collection. I looked around to see where it could be bought, but there's no place in the USA that sells it and the 2 Swedish websites that sell that line of clothing don't sell that dress.
Purple Rose Party Dress free pattern and tutorial
 I realized I could sew up a very similar one using my Purple Rose Party Dress pattern with minimal adjustments. Would you like to sew one, too? Here's what I did…
Purple Rose Party Dress free pattern and tutorial
 Striped Dress free pattern and tutorial

What you need:
  • 2 yards striped fabric (2 yards was just enough, to be on the safe side 2.25 or 2.5 yards would be better, if using thicker striped fabric I recommend 2.5+ yards)
  • 1 yard lining fabric
  • 1 invisible zipper (the length of the zipper I installed was 10 inches)
  • Purple Rose Party Dress free pattern and tutorial
  • Quilting ruler that has a 45 degree angle on it
  • Rotary cutter
  • Cutting mat
  • 1 inch bias tape maker

Quick explanation of how I adapted my Purple Rose Party Dress pattern to create this striped dress:
  • omit the front bow sash
  • cut the front bodice pattern in 2 separate pieces
  • cut an extra circle skirt 6 inches in length
  • fully line the bodice and circle skirts (omit the French seams)
  • omit the bias tape trim on the hem of the circle skirts

Now for the more detailed explanation with photos of how I executed this look. Warning: To obtain perfect 90 degree angles (in the final result) extra precision is needed when cutting out every piece. Following the photos is very important for this tutorial. Please refer to the Purple Rose Party Dress tutorial for information and basic construction steps that I might have missed here.

First of all add .5 inch to the center of the front bodice piece, this is for the .5 inch seam allowance. The front bodice is cut in 2 pieces where the stripes are cut at a 45 degree angle.

 I put the first bodice piece on top of the fabric (right sides together) to obtain a perfectly symmetrical piece.
 Cut the back bodice pieces at a 45 degree angle, making sure to line up the stripes (and form a 90 degree angle) with the front bodice pieces.



 Sew the front bodice pieces together with a .5 inch seam allowance, press seams open.

 Finish sewing together the bodice pieces and the bodice lining pieces, press seams open.
 Moving onto the circle skirt of 6 inches in length. Cut out four 10 inch squares at a 45 degree angle.

 Sew them together, press seams open.
 Cut out a circle skirt of 6 inches in length in the lining fabric, place it on top (right sides together) of the large square you just sewed together.
 Cut out striped circle skirt, sew together using .25 inch seam allowance. Clip edges all around, turn right side out, and press.

 Repeat this for the circle skirt of 10 inches in length, but this time cut out four 14 inch squares.
Using .5 inch seam allowance attach the 2 circle skirts to the bodice.
Cut 3 yards of bias tape, 1.75 inches wide for the 1 inch bias tape maker (I made three 1 yard pieces of bias tape).

 The dress is just as pretty on the inside as it is on the outside being fully lined and also with the bias tape trim on the skirt/bodice seam.
 All that remains is installing the invisible zipper and sewing on the bias tape to the arm holes and neckline.
 Maybe you would prefer to have a 7 inch and 9 inch skirt lengths, for example. So depending on how you want the proportions of the 2 skirt layers, you can make the circle skirts at different lengths and here is what you will need:
  • 6 inch length: four 10 inch squares
  • 7 inch length: four 11 inch squares
  • 8 inch length: four 12 inch squares
  • 9 inch length: four 13 inch squares
  • 10 inch length: four 14 inch squares

 Isn't it incredible how the same sewing pattern can be used to create 2 completely different looks? That's what I call versatility!

I hope you enjoy sewing your striped dress!


PS Cost estimation: for 3 yards of fabric and 1 invisible zipper I spent $18.50

PPS If you like striped dresses you might also enjoy sewing my Purpledicular Dress